Project BruteForce2 - IONI-based DIY DD FFB Wheel

Spinelli said:
I just want to share my excitement of finally sending the funds to Ollie for an OSW (2 or 3 days ago). Hopefully I get a shipping notification soon as I can't wait.

I sold my Fana B M3 GT2 and P 918 RSR rims and am planning to get a Fana Uni Hub + 3 or 4 rims (Fana Flat1 and GT, and 1, maybe 2, larger rims).

If anyone knows of an inexpensive method to be able to change rims while having useable buttons for every rim other than using a Fana Uni Hub, please let me know. Paying $300 - $1,000 per rim (for custom made or modded rims) is not part of my gameplan.
Click to expand...

You need an adapter with Fanatec spaced holes (50mm):
http://www.racingfr.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48895

and an USB interface to be connected to the fanatec wheel Motherboard:
http://www.racingfr.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50754
This interfece is also sold by Leo Bodnar but it is much more expensive (50pounds versus 12$ of the Arduino Teensy LC)
 
Gday Cookie , in iracing but I have a mate coming over this Friday with a working Osw build and try a few things ie: encoder cable etc .. I'm thinking encoder at this stage .. I will post results to help others once I identify the issue .. Also the wheel sometimes grabs at wheel lock and shakes and holds ( need to EStop to release ) .. Sorry for the late reply was away ..
 
Daniel Jones said:
Gday Cookie , in iracing but I have a mate coming over this Friday with a working Osw build and try a few things ie: encoder cable etc .. I'm thinking encoder at this stage .. I will post results to help others once I identify the issue .. Also the wheel sometimes grabs at wheel lock and shakes and holds ( need to EStop to release ) .. Sorry for the late reply was away ..
Click to expand...

Have you listed your fault codes from granity in the Iracing forums, there's always great help in the IONI hardware section.
 
Will give that a go cookie , If we still struggle . Thx a lot for your time ? I will be sure to post as it might help someone else with the same issue one day ...
 
Worked out my problem. I had my encoder set wrong In granity at 2500 PPR instead of 5000 .. All sorted now .. Hope this helps someone else .. I rewired my encoder three times !!
 
Great that you got it going it always something simple that catches you out, now we need a report from you and Dave on your OSW wheels, I've moved my A/F wheel onto my second rig because the OSW is the better wheel for rFactor, but I still think the A/F is better for iRacing.
 
Gents, one little question;

I set the PWM at 3.4khz as that was the picture on the guide.
I would like to know what that figure actually is?
Is it the update rate?

Reason being in RF2 I was getting CPU spikes and after consulting the known issues doc in the core RF2 folder I tested the "skip update" hack and that fixed it.
This I think means the MMOS software is no handling the speed of the update rate of RF2 FFB.
So I am wondering if the PWM setting needs to be higher or if there is another solution.

Cheers
 
Well lads , I Gotta say ! I love my new OSW ( I can drive the v8s ) and that's proof how good this wheel is ! I can catch just about every slip and slide just like the real car . I'm so goddamn happy with jumping in and going a head and upgrading my CSW v2 ! I'm very happy and it's just the start . Already smashing my best times and it's been two days ..
I only run Iracing , and with this beauty I'm loving it ( well more than before ) !
 
Finally got my OSW runng this morning. It's awesome and so much fun!!!

Unfortunately, different FFB hardware doesn't change a piece of software's (the games') physics so each sim still obviously drives exactly the same (as it should since the software/game itself hasn't changed) - so, at the end of the day, the exact same game is being played - but the OSW sure does increases the overall enjoyment and immersion rate tremendously regardleas of how great/bad, realistic/unrealistic a given game may be.

Ollie is awesome, guys. We communicated for two months as I "harassed" him with tons of questions, thoughts, concerns, ideas, etc. He always gave great, informative feedback and was always very polite and patient. Actually, he even told me that I sort of "forced" him to learn even more because of all my questions and thoughts I sent him [emoji3]; so he's more knowledgable now than ever! He's awesome!


Led566 said:
You need an adapter with Fanatec spaced holes (50mm):
http://www.racingfr.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48895

and an USB interface to be connected to the fanatec wheel Motherboard:
http://www.racingfr.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50754
This interfece is also sold by Leo Bodnar but it is much more expensive (50pounds versus 12$ of the Arduino Teensy LC)
Click to expand...

Thank you, Led :)
 
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Spinelli said:
Finally got my OSW runng this morning. It's awesome and so much fun!!!

Unfortunately, different FFB hardware doesn't change a piece of software's (the games') physics so each sim still obviously drives exactly the same (as it should since the software/game itself hasn't changed) - so, at the end of the day, the exact same game is being played - but the OSW sure does increases the overall enjoyment and immersion rate tremendously regardleas of how great/bad, realistic/unrealistic a given game may be.

Ollie is awesome, guys. We communicated for two months as I "harassed" him with tons of questions, thoughts, concerns, ideas, etc. He always gave great, informative feedback and was always very polite and patient. Actually, he even told me that I sort of "forced" him to learn even more because of all my questions and thoughts I sent him [emoji3]; so he's more knowledgable now than ever! He's awesome!




Thank you, Led :)
Click to expand...

Hey Spinelli,

Glad you liked your new DD wheel, just got mine running also ( from a G25 to this is quite a change ). I also bought the kit through Ollie and agree with your assessment of his character, awesome to deal with.

Couple of questions: What case did you use and how did you wire a fan to the 24v power supply? I ended up making a case and have no fan at the moment; according to Ollie I might not need one depending on the ambient temperature I use the wheel in. I think I'd like to add one for the summer months though.

The wheel feels great with Rfactor2 but, I also play a lot of Power and Glory and don't have the setup yet; might be asking too much of an old of a sim. The wheel feels like a glorified centering spring at the moment; maybe some plr. work is needed.

Ya,
rubberneck
 
Ok well still had an issue with my wheel not giving me the degrees I had set in MMO . Now fixed with
Encoder CpR 20000
 
rubberneck said:
Hey Spinelli,

Glad you liked your new DD wheel, just got mine running also ( from a G25 to this is quite a change ). I also bought the kit through Ollie and agree with your assessment of his character, awesome to deal with.

Couple of questions: What case did you use and how did you wire a fan to the 24v power supply? I ended up making a case and have no fan at the moment; according to Ollie I might not need one depending on the ambient temperature I use the wheel in. I think I'd like to add one for the summer months though.

The wheel feels great with Rfactor2 but, I also play a lot of Power and Glory and don't have the setup yet; might be asking too much of an old of a sim. The wheel feels like a glorified centering spring at the moment; maybe some plr. work is needed.

Ya,
rubberneck
Click to expand...
Ya, I have a lot of that feeling of just basically a glorified centering spring (definitely helps with oversteer but that's it) which just kills braking, entry, and mid-corner (exit not as much). I actually have had this feeling in RF2 as-well (regardless of wheel, T500RS, TX, CSW V2). It's part of the reason I long for more FFB options so I can set things correctly. I have noticed that lowering caster in RF2 does help give a bit more FFB dynamics regarding front-end slip/grip in RF2 but I find it weird and highly unrealistic having to resort to like 2 degrees of caster just to get FFB information to me when in real-life, if anything, drivers go for a lot of caster (I even saw an interview of an IMSA engineer in the 90s say that if it wasn't for steering loads getting too high, that drivers would always want the max possible caster - quite the opposite of RF2). Anyways, that's just my personal opinion/experience, I'm glad you're enjoying RF2 :)

Regarding P&G...Yup, you have to play with the controller.INI (or the settings might still be in the player.PLR with GTR 2, can't remember) and/or with RealFeel - all applies to SCE as-well (any gMotor based game other than RF2). I had to play with settings in those games (RF1, GTL, etc.) everytime I got a new wheel so you're definitely going to have to do some playing around. The good thing is, no matter what wheel you have, from a $50 Logi Momo Racing wheel to a $600 Fana CSW V2 and beyond, you should be able to get everyone of those games to feel the way you want, or thereabouts.



I haven't spent much time with the OSW. It's difficult to play with it because I don't know how to change the wheel angle.


So, does anyone know how to raise the pitch-angle of the OSW? I'm pretty sure I'm using this piece HERE

Not only do the pics show a decent pitch-angle...:
PIC 1
PIC 2

...but the product description states "Adjustable from -5 to + 20 degree inclination"


Here's mine though:

20160227_042035.jpg


20160227_043801.jpg


20160227_043853.jpg




There's no more room (towards the driver) to move the bolt so as to raise the pitch-angle, it's all the way forward just like in the sim-lab pics yet mine is nothing like the sim-labs pics :(
 
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How about rotating the motor for 180°, it looks like its upside down?
The cables on the first official PIC are on the other side.

9OVxy0N.jpg


And then I think you can unscrew bottom side screws and pull the motor towards to tilt it.

kq0wQA8.jpg
 
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Prodigy said:
How about rotating the motor for 180°, it looks like its upside down?
The cables on the first official PIC are on the other side.



And then I think you can unscrew bottom side screws and pull the motor towards to tilt it.
Click to expand...
It looks like I can't move the screw any more further but I hope I'm wrong :)

Hmmm......I heard it doesn't matter which way it's mounted, also, the label sticker in the pic is upside down while mine is not; this is exactly how it was delivered to me from Ollie (and tested by him). I could be wrong but the motor looks identical regardless of if it's upside down or not....

I got another reply from another forum saying
Based on pictures i think you only need to rotate front part of the mount upside down
Click to expand...
but I don't know what he means and I felt bad asking (maybe English isn't his first language). How can I rotate the mount upside down? It only works one way (flat part, 4 holes, on desk)...
 
Spinelli said:
Ya, I have a lot of that feeling of just basically a glorified centering spring (definitely helps with oversteer but that's it) which just kills braking, entry, and mid-corner (exit not as much). I actually have had this feeling in RF2 as-well (regardless of wheel, T500RS, TX, CSW V2). It's part of the reason I long for more FFB options so I can set things correctly. I have noticed that lowering caster in RF2 does help give a bit more FFB dynamics regarding front-end slip/grip in RF2 but I find it weird and highly unrealistic having to resort to like 2 degrees of caster just to get FFB information to me when in real-life, if anything, drivers go for a lot of caster (I even saw an interview of an IMSA engineer in the 90s say that if it wasn't for steering loads getting too high, that drivers would always want the max possible caster - quite the opposite of RF2). Anyways, that's just my personal opinion/experience, I'm glad you're enjoying RF2 :)

Regarding P&G...Yup, you have to play with the controller.INI (or the settings might still be in the player.PLR with GTR 2, can't remember) and/or with RealFeel - all applies to SCE as-well (any gMotor based game other than RF2). I had to play with settings in those games (RF1, GTL, etc.) everytime I got a new wheel so you're definitely going to have to do some playing around. The good thing is, no matter what wheel you have, from a $50 Logi Momo Racing wheel to a $600 Fana CSW V2 and beyond, you should be able to get everyone of those games to feel the way you want, or thereabouts.



I haven't spent much time with the OSW. It's difficult to play with it because I don't know how to change the wheel angle.


So, does anyone know how to raise the pitch-angle of the OSW? I'm pretty sure I'm using this piece HERE

Not only do the pics show a decent pitch-angle...:
PIC 1
PIC 2

...but the product description states "Adjustable from -5 to + 20 degree inclination"


Here's mine though:

20160227_042035.jpg


20160227_043801.jpg


20160227_043853.jpg




There's no more room (towards the driver) to move the bolt so as to raise the pitch-angle, it's all the way forward just like in the sim-lab pics yet mine is nothing like the sim-labs pics :(
Click to expand...

Hi Spin,

Does the plate that is attached to the front of the motor have a slot that corresponds to the side plates slot (the bolt slot on the bottom of the side plate) ? Hard to see from the pictures but, if you slightly loosen the top pivot nut then loosen the bottom slot nut enough so that the bolt allows the motor to travel through both the slot in the side plate, and if the front plate does have a slot, through that as well. That seem like the only way it could make it to a 20 degree angle. Hope this helps.

By the way did you wire a fan in the box that holds you DD wheel kit?
 
Spinelli said:
Ya, I have a lot of that feeling of just basically a glorified centering spring (definitely helps with oversteer but that's it) which just kills braking, entry, and mid-corner (exit not as much). I actually have had this feeling in RF2 as-well (regardless of wheel, T500RS, TX, CSW V2). It's part of the reason I long for more FFB options so I can set things correctly. I have noticed that lowering caster in RF2 does help give a bit more FFB dynamics regarding front-end slip/grip in RF2 but I find it weird and highly unrealistic having to resort to like 2 degrees of caster just to get FFB information to me when in real-life, if anything, drivers go for a lot of caster (I even saw an interview of an IMSA engineer in the 90s say that if it wasn't for steering loads getting too high, that drivers would always want the max possible caster - quite the opposite of RF2). Anyways, that's just my personal opinion/experience, I'm glad you're enjoying RF2 :)

Regarding P&G...Yup, you have to play with the controller.INI (or the settings might still be in the player.PLR with GTR 2, can't remember) and/or with RealFeel - all applies to SCE as-well (any gMotor based game other than RF2). I had to play with settings in those games (RF1, GTL, etc.) everytime I got a new wheel so you're definitely going to have to do some playing around. The good thing is, no matter what wheel you have, from a $50 Logi Momo Racing wheel to a $600 Fana CSW V2 and beyond, you should be able to get everyone of those games to feel the way you want, or thereabouts.



I haven't spent much time with the OSW. It's difficult to play with it because I don't know how to change the wheel angle.


So, does anyone know how to raise the pitch-angle of the OSW? I'm pretty sure I'm using this piece HERE

Not only do the pics show a decent pitch-angle...:
PIC 1
PIC 2

...but the product description states "Adjustable from -5 to + 20 degree inclination"


Here's mine though:

20160227_042035.jpg


20160227_043801.jpg


20160227_043853.jpg




There's no more room (towards the driver) to move the bolt so as to raise the pitch-angle, it's all the way forward just like in the sim-lab pics yet mine is nothing like the sim-labs pics :(
Click to expand...

Hi Spin,

Check to see if the front plate has a slot that corresponds with the side plates slot. You might have to move the motor though that slot; the bolt might be binding on the inner slot. Just a guess.

Did you wire a fan into your DD kit box?
 
Hi Spin,

Check to see if there are slots on the front plate that correspond with the slot on the side plate, maybe the bolt is binding on the inner slot. I'm not sure if there are inner slots, just a guess.
 
rubberneck said:
Hi Spin,

Check to see if there are slots on the front plate that correspond with the slot on the side plate, maybe the bolt is binding on the inner slot. I'm not sure if there are inner slots, just a guess.
Click to expand...

I agree , I think there is a slot behind the one in the Side Plate. This would also imply the bottom 'adjuster screw' has a nut on the back of it and doesn't screw into the Front Plate.

View attachment 19461
 
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Have mine set at 4.2 .. Had a friend who knows a little about the Osw and suggested some setting and basically fixed my issues ...
 
You guys may be right, there may be another slider-hole on the other plate behind. Ok, I'll have to lift this heavy beast off my desk. My desk needs a break anyways, lol.

Someone on the iracing forums told me to rotate the front plate (not the motor) 180 degrees. That may be what Prodigy was trying to explain to me in his first pic above (I thought he meant the actual motor though).

I'll take a better look at it all later and report back, I have a feeling those hidden holes on the inside my be the answer.

Thanks for all the help!


Daniel, it seems like you have your issues fixed but, ya, set to 5,000 and 20,000 for 5,000 PPR encoders, and 2,500 and 10,000 for 2500 PPR encoders. And 3.4 KHz or whatever.
 
Hi,

My OSW DIY is almost in final stage and I'm going to buy noise filters(Ferriate Choke Cores).
Is there anybody who has knowledge about the noise filter and can say which one is better for OSW between 2 graphs in attached picture?

View attachment 19473

Thanks.
 
Daniel Jones said:
Ok well still had an issue with my wheel not giving me the degrees I had set in MMO . Now fixed with
Encoder CpR 20000
Click to expand...
Same here, glad you mentioned it.

Cookie suggest a report. I have all the photos ready. I need to just tweak a couple of things to get it spot on and will do a report.
 
Spinelli said:
You guys may be right, there may be another slider-hole on the other plate behind. Ok, I'll have to lift this heavy beast off my desk. My desk needs a break anyways, lol.

Someone on the iracing forums told me to rotate the front plate (not the motor) 180 degrees. That may be what Prodigy was trying to explain to me in his first pic above (I thought he meant the actual motor though).

I'll take a better look at it all later and report back, I have a feeling those hidden holes on the inside my be the answer.

Thanks for all the help!


Daniel, it seems like you have your issues fixed but, ya, set to 5,000 and 20,000 for 5,000 PPR encoders, and 2,500 and 10,000 for 2500 PPR encoders. And 3.4 KHz or whatever.
Click to expand...

spinelli, what rim do you use with your OSW? my osw is about to arrive mid march from tomo meglic and gotta find a nice rim but can't find anyone with button box for a nice price..
 
softslider said:
Hi,

My OSW DIY is almost in final stage and I'm going to buy noise filters(Ferriate Choke Cores).
Is there anybody who has knowledge about the noise filter and can say which one is better for OSW between 2 graphs in attached picture?

View attachment 19473

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I got the answer from GraniteDevices as follows.

"The graphs are quite close to each other, however, the right one (blue graph) has slightly more impedance around 20-100MHz. Even so, they both seem to be suitable."
 
You guys were right, there are holes on the inside cover to angle the motor more but I can't angle it more than a few degrees because the rear of the motor hits my desk so I have to either put a bunch of washers/spacers on all 4 corners for the mount to sit on or make some kind of platform. Frustrating!!!

jkn87 said:
spinelli, what rim do you use with your OSW? my osw is about to arrive mid march from tomo meglic and gotta find a nice rim but can't find anyone with button box for a nice price..
Click to expand...
I'm just using a g27 rim at the moment for tests, it's not really suited to play because I have it mounted really bad. My friend quickly made a sort of mount just to get the job done for early tests, lol...don't ask, lol.

For wheel rims my goal was the following:
 
Wheel rims.

I converted the Fanatec Formula Rim using the Leo Bodnar conversion chip (£50.00).
It was fiddly work* and I made a mess of it initially but managed to rescue it.
There is also another chaper ($12:00) conversion chip out there.

You need to be very careful and patient with the fitting of the chip. You need good soldering skills and some practice. You also need to have a good temperature controlled soldering iron, some solder wick, the corect solder. So when they warn you about all that believe them.
There is also a good more practical alternative to the Bodnar recommended process.

Having been through that minor crisis I have come out the other end with a fully functioning formula rim with 25 functions on it. So No button box here.
The chassis of this rim is steel so if you read anywhere about it not having the strength dont believe it.

So there is a £250 alternative for you which is very good.
 
davidporeilly said:
Wheel rims.

I converted the Fanatec Formula Rim using the Leo Bodnar conversion chip (£50.00).
It was fiddly work* and I made a mess of it initially but managed to rescue it.
There is also another chaper ($12:00) conversion chip out there.

You need to be very careful and patient with the fitting of the chip. You need good soldering skills and some practice. You also need to have a good temperature controlled soldering iron, some solder wick, the corect solder. So when they warn you about all that believe them.
There is also a good more practical alternative to the Bodnar recommended process.

Having been through that minor crisis I have come out the other end with a fully functioning formula rim with 25 functions on it. So No button box here.
The chassis of this rim is steel so if you read anywhere about it not having the strength dont believe it.

So there is a £250 alternative for you which is very good.
Click to expand...

You mean this?

https://github.com/darknao/btClubSportWheel/
 
Hey Spinelli with your large MiGe did you do the auto tune for the coil resistance in the tuning tab from granity maybe that would help with the notchy feel. With the small MiGe and the HKS servo I only run 10.5 amps and never felt any notching with low or high ffb.
 
I couldn't finish my post (post 148) so I'll finish it here:

I was honestly going to buy a knockoff rim on eBay as I thought they were fine but other OSW owners told me that some of theirs broke. I guess I'll stay away from them...

Here's a basic rundown of what I want, I'll probably just end up going with 3 rims (A,B, and C):

A) 270 - 290 mm (280 mm preferred) - not perfectly round - alcantara/suede - eg. Fanatec Flat1

B) 310 - 330 mm (320 mm preferred) - not perfectly round - alcantara/suede - eg. Fanatec GT

C) 350 - 355 mm - perfectly round - leather - eg. Fanatec Classic

D) 360 - 380 mm - perfectly round - leather or wood - eg. "classic car"-style rim


I'm thinking maybe just go the easy route and buy the Fanatec Flat1, GT, and Classic. It would be perfect if I could do 280/320/350, or even 290/320/350), instead of 275/330/350 but considering the price of most other non-knockoff wheels, maybe just going the Fanatec route, and sucking it up with regards to trying to get everything perfect, is the best option here.

I've been told the Fanatec Flat1 is actually 272 mm not 275 mm but oh well.

cookie said:
Hey Spinelli with your large MiGe did you do the auto tune for the coil resistance in the tuning tab from granity maybe that would help with the notchy feel. With the small MiGe and the HKS servo I only run 10.5 amps and never felt any notching with low or high ffb.
Click to expand...
No, I haven't tried that yet. I might though. I'm going to give it a week or two of use and see if the motor maybe breaks in a little as someone else mentioned their Small Mige's notchy/stickiness lessened after a week or two of use.
 
Last edited:
To whom made OSW with IONICUBE 1X, I'd like to ask if you have experienced any issue at CONNECT TO DRIVE in Granity SW.



In my case, DISCOVERY FW uploading was done correctly after driver installation.

Then I was going to try flash FW in IONI. Simple V2 USB adater driver was automatically installed as soon as it is connected in WIN7.

In the connect tab of Granity SW, I was able to see "COM3 SimpleMotion V2 Adapter" correctly and when I press "CONNECT TO DRIVE", there comes empty list.



Reading Granity WIKI page, I'm checking from the beginning but no problem found till now. I just started discussion with Granity but your experience also will be highly appreciated.

- I used correctly straight LAN cable for the connection with Simple V2 USB adapter.

- In IONICUBE 1X, the DIP switch was on from the beginning correctly.

- 24V power seems well supplied. I didn't measure the voltage value but I see 12V FAN is working well after passin through Voltage regulator(24V->12V).

- LED1 shows LLS blinking and LED2 shows SSSL blinking. This shows the IONI board is not configured and this blinking state seems correct as it is not configured before.

- E-STOP cable connected but no motor connection exists yet for power and encoder.
 
softslider said:
To whom made OSW with IONICUBE 1X, I'd like to ask if you have experienced any issue at CONNECT TO DRIVE in Granity SW. In my case, DISCOVERY FW uploading was done correctly after driver installation. Then I was going to try flash FW in IONI. Simple V2 USB adater driver was automatically installed as soon as it is connected in WIN7. In the connect tab of Granity SW, I was able to see "COM3 SimpleMotion V2 Adapter" correctly and when I press "CONNECT TO DRIVE", there comes empty list.

Reading Granity WIKI page, I'm checking from the beginning but no problem found till now. I just started discussion with Granity but your experience also will be highly appreciated.
- I used correctly straight LAN cable for the connection with Simple V2 USB adapter.
- In IONICUBE 1X, the DIP switch was on from the beginning correctly.
- 24V power seems well supplied. I didn't measure the voltage value but I see 12V FAN is working well after passin through Voltage regulator(24V->12V).
- LED1 shows LLS blinking and LED2 shows SSSL blinking. This shows the IONI board is not configured and this blinking state seems correct as it is not configured before.
- E-STOP cable connected but no motor connection exists yet for power and encoder.
Click to expand...

Finally I was able to figure it out by disconnecting all connections between IONI and DISCO and just connecting USB cable for IONI.

BTW the Granity setting in the 7th writing of 1st page is for small MIGE using IONICUBE 1 axis? In the goals tab, CEI is set as IONICUBE 4 axis and I worry it is for IONICUBE 4 axis. Can someone please share the DRC file for small MIGE and IONICUBE 1 axis? I expect I'm able to test and tune my OSW once I get it.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
softslider said:
Finally I was able to figure it out by disconnecting all connections between IONI and DISCO and just connecting USB cable for IONI.

BTW the Granity setting in the 7th writing of 1st page is for small MIGE using IONICUBE 1 axis? In the goals tab, CEI is set as IONICUBE 4 axis and I worry it is for IONICUBE 4 axis. Can someone please share the DRC file for small MIGE and IONICUBE 1 axis? I expect I'm able to test and tune my OSW once I get it.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
The IONICUBE 4 axis is the right file to use with the IONICUBE 1 axis.
A big thanx to Joe Sullivan, all the required software and bits and pieces can be found at this url:
http://boxthislap.org/osw-documentation/?d=L3NvZnR3YXJlIHV0aWxpdGllcw==
 
SimuCUBE OpenSimWheel system is now real
https://igg.me/at/simucube

It looks like Ollie added a motor package that would be a good compliment to the SimuCUBE KIT.
https://sim-pli.city/collections/all/products/direct-drive-wheel-motor-bundle

$610 usd including shipping a good deal for:

MiGE 130ST-M15015 (with 5000ppr encoder)
Adjustable Motor Mount
Motor Shaft to Steering Wheel Adapter
Pre-assembled 3 metre Motor power cable
Pre-assembled 3 metre Motor encoder cable
Pre-wired Emergency Stop with 3 metre cable
DB15 connector and ferrite cores
Also is $50 upgrade worth it for the DB15 connector and ferrite cores

SimuCUBE Kit $399 usd.
 
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Finally I was able to make my OSW move and I'm really happy with it. BTW I doubt the HV output(44.4VDC) generated from PSU is correct(seems lower than others). In my area, 220VAC/60Hz is supported, and measuring the votage it is 218VAC.

Hence I'd like to ask any OSW owner using IONI+Antek 600W linear PSU to share the "HV bus boltage" once in idle mode. It is seen in the testing tab of the Granity tool. Please also share the voltage and Hz information as well.

I was told from an expert that it might be no issue in case the transformer is wired to 240V.
For example, 240VAC : 218VAC = 50VDC : 45.4VDC.

If so, no issue. But if not, there is a problem with the PSU?
 
softslider said:
Finally I was able to make my OSW move and I'm really happy with it. BTW I doubt the HV output(44.4VDC) generated from PSU is correct(seems lower than others). In my area, 220VAC/60Hz is supported, and measuring the votage it is 218VAC.

Hence I'd like to ask any OSW owner using IONI+Antek 600W linear PSU to share the "HV bus boltage" once in idle mode. It is seen in the testing tab of the Granity tool. Please also share the voltage and Hz information as well.

I was told from an expert that it might be no issue in case the transformer is wired to 240V.
For example, 240VAC : 218VAC = 50VDC : 45.4VDC.

If so, no issue. But if not, there is a problem with the PSU?
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No issue at all with the PSU and no issue with IONI.
In practical terms, Bus voltage impacts only max rotational speed, maybe you'll have just few rpm less, you won't notice it.
 
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