Project BruteForce2 - IONI-based DIY DD FFB Wheel

softslider said:
Hi cookie,

Thanks for the pictures. They are definitely helpful. As you suggested, I'll consider being a iracing member for the moment.
Click to expand...

New member price is only 1 Month : $6 or 3 Months : $15 you just need a new email / Gmail address to get this if you already been a member.
 
Hi OSW owners,

Can you please give an idea how(what is used) the power switch and wire is connected in below picture? The picture is captured from "Steps to perfection" by Troy A. Schulz. It seems that soldering not used but it' hard to know due to the tube surrounding the connection point. I'd like to follow this method for the wiring.

View attachment 19230

View attachment 19231

Thanks.
 
Zizza said:
Yesterday is arrived mine osw from Ollie, simply perfect! The shipment is arrived in 2 boxes and everything was very tidy and sealed.

So, after dinner, I started to mount this beast, and about midnight everything was ready.
I only tested for about 10 laps but it's another world compared to my "old" t500.
Click to expand...

Mine arrived this morning.
Very well packed and many pre-connected cables to help the electrically inept.
I've been slowly and carefully connecting everything. With Ollies pdf file its been quite straight forward.
Ready now to get the power lead (PC type) and test it.

Then I have to try to recover my nearly botched Formula Rim conversion. I have now purchased a temp controlled soldering iron and have the appropriate solder, some thin copper film and magnifying glasses on order.
 
Gents I have a question.
I have downloaded the latest firmware for the IONI.
Its a GDF file and my windows 7 PC doesnt want to open it.
Any ideas?
Cheers
 
I do not have any knowledge about IONI but if the gdf file is the firmware then it's a file in binary format and you need a additional application or tool to load it into "whatever". It's the same as with a uefi or bios upgrade on a mainboard.
 
Thanks gents.
I worked it out a little later than my post.
I was trying to open the gdf file outside of Granity.
I re-read the Beano instructions more carefully and found that I only had to point the granity software at its location and it dealt with it.

So I got all the system powered up and set up last night. Todays job was the enclosure.
I ordered one at 4:45pm yesterday, it arrived at 8:45 am today, despite me being a penny pincher and only requesting "economy delivery 3-5 days".

With a bit of adaption by removing a cd-rom drive case on the PSU side it all fitted in.
Tonight I powered it up as an enclosed unit. All good and showing the correct things.

Next job is to undo the damage I did to my fanatec formula rim. Then fit the Bodner Chip. I pulled off 6 of 8 solder pads. B4 spending $200 on a new wheel I will attempt to replace them. Waiting on thin copper and magnifying glasses. If I fail it will be good practice I guess.
 
davidporeilly said:
Thanks gents.
...

Next job is to undo the damage I did to my fanatec formula rim. Then fit the Bodner Chip. I pulled off 6 of 8 solder pads. B4 spending $200 on a new wheel I will attempt to replace them. Waiting on thin copper and magnifying glasses. If I fail it will be good practice I guess.
Click to expand...

You'll succeed.;)
And even if if the MB and the Bodnar chip are FUBAR, consider to radically mod the wheel by wiring the switches and the rotary encoders directly to an addon board like these:
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=97&products_id=185
http://store.renovatio-dev.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=52
 
What pedals are you guys using?
I have blown my budget and was planning on using my modded Fanatec CSR pedals. Just found out today they are not capable of being used as a USB compatible device.
So far all I can think of at a reasonable price is finding a second hand Club Sport V1 or CSR Elite Pedal set.
Any thing I am not seeing?

Cheers
 
davidporeilly said:
What pedals are you guys using?
I have blown my budget and was planning on using my modded Fanatec CSR pedals. Just found out today they are not capable of being used as a USB compatible device.
So far all I can think of at a reasonable price is finding a second hand Club Sport V1 or CSR Elite Pedal set.
Any thing I am not seeing?

Cheers
Click to expand...

I'm happy with the CSR Elite.
But...what kind of mod do you have on the pedals?
In any case should be relatively easy to connect the pedals to the Discovery 32 in your OSW and use the MMOs driver as interface for the pedals also. ;)
941495Pedale.png
 
View attachment 19276
Its nothing special, just 2 RC off road car shocks that give the brake more intuitive feel and the basher board replacement for the standard Fanatec one (which seem to all lose their calibration).
However I am happy with it and will keep it if I can.

Electrically I am very uninformed. Easy for you might be hard for me. For me easy means with a picture! Wiring diagrams get me nervous.
I would need to find out which physical wires I attach and where etc.
However if I the discovery will do it I would like to find out more.

Can you point me anywhere??
Cheers
 
guys (and ladies if there are any arround), i would love to add my f1 150 thrustmaster rim to my coming soon "osw" from tomo meglic.
Do anyone know how to make buttons functional converting the f1 addon conexion to some usb type? do i need any circuit board prior to make it usb compatible? i am not too keen on electronics as you might see.
i am trying to save money so that's why i wanted to re-use my f1 addon cause i have not found any f1 rim or even gt rim with buttons and padles for low money..all of them are really pricy!!!
 
davidporeilly said:
View attachment 19276
Its nothing special, just 2 RC off road car shocks that give the brake more intuitive feel and the basher board replacement for the standard Fanatec one (which seem to all lose their calibration).
However I am happy with it and will keep it if I can.

Electrically I am very uninformed. Easy for you might be hard for me. For me easy means with a picture! Wiring diagrams get me nervous.
I would need to find out which physical wires I attach and where etc.
However if I the discovery will do it I would like to find out more.

Can you point me anywhere??
Cheers
Click to expand...

I will try to find some more info (and possibly photos) for you.
 
Led566 said:
I will try to find some more info (and possibly photos) for you.
Click to expand...
You are very kind.
I did find this one
https://chippedwood.wordpress.com/2015/07/02/6/

which seems quite good but I read (on bodner site I think) that the logitech and Fanatec wires have to be done in reverse as one of them treats low voltage as maximum pedal and the other high voltage as maximum.

Other dumb questions:
Which wires get conected? there are three wires from each pot which join a small (in my case Basher board) circuit board. From there its a single cable and plug. Is it pre or post the circuit board?
When not using the system, do you power it down at the power switch or simply use the enable switch (very cool switch like the button on a missile etc).

Thanks
Sincerely
David
What type of connector do I use?

Edit:
Bit more homework.
This will guide me as to the fanatec wiring (and it makes it clear that its "post circuit board).
https://gyazo.com/2c2013efaadc54bd21b8a9f4aee93b7a
 
Last edited:
jkn87 said:
guys (and ladies if there are any arround), i would love to add my f1 150 thrustmaster rim to my coming soon "osw" from tomo meglic.
Do anyone know how to make buttons functional converting the f1 addon conexion to some usb type? do i need any circuit board prior to make it usb compatible? i am not too keen on electronics as you might see.
i am trying to save money so that's why i wanted to re-use my f1 addon cause i have not found any f1 rim or even gt rim with buttons and padles for low money..all of them are really pricy!!!
Click to expand...

I'm working to create an adapter with my 3d printer, it's almost finished but I have to modify some details to make it stronger
 
Question for anyone that may know.
When connecting wires from my CSR pedals directly to pins on the PCB is it neccessary or preferable to use a jumper wire or is it ok to connect the wire directly using a crimp?
Also what type of crimp is recommended: Dupont style or butt splice?
Thanks in advance!
 
davidporeilly said:
Question for anyone that may know.
When connecting wires from my CSR pedals directly to pins on the PCB is it neccessary or preferable to use a jumper wire or is it ok to connect the wire directly using a crimp?
Also what type of crimp is recommended: Dupont style or butt splice?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

imho technically it doesn't matter. It's up to you and where you feel most comfy with.
 
Eddy said:
imho technically it doesn't matter. It's up to you and where you feel most comfy with.
Click to expand...
It seems the duponts are the way to go.
I went and got some of the smaller red butt splice crimps and they are WAY too big for this application. They dwarf the pin headers. So I have ordered some duponts.

Yes another question from my learning curve drawer.
Novatech kindly sent me a case fan as it was listed as standard on the case I purchased. Does anyone know where it should be connected?
 
Hi,
anyone can give me the new firmware MMosFFB99.2, i am not able to download it at Virtual-Racing. I don't know why !, i am registered but i can't.
 
Hi gents.

I have 2 questions. (3 actually)

I am trying to get mt fanatec CSR pedals (plain ones not elite) to work with the OSW set up.
I followed the guidance here
https://chippedwood.wordpress.com/2015/07/02/6/

After making the connections nothing is registering in-game. Any thoughts about configuration settings in MMOS

Also while trying various settings I clicked DFU mode by mistake. I dont even know what it does. I only know that you aren't meant to click on it!
Now my indicator beside device settings/setup is now red.

Last question: Should Granity be running whenever I want to drive or is it just for setting up?

Thanks a lot.

David
 
BTW I managed to sort out the second issue by clearing and flashing MMOS again.
 
Getting some progress with the Fanatec CSR pedals.
I rechecked all my dupont connectors now I have some magnifying glasses. Some were not correct.
Now I have Throttle and clutch being recognised by the MMOS controller, but still no brake. I have re-done the dupont connectors for brake, also pulled the physical pedal assembly apart and re soldered some quite rough early soldering repairs by myself. Still no joy yet.

The responses in the 2 pedals that are recognised are quite strange though. When I press a pedal it shows up in the 1st half of its range then disappears. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers
David
 
cookie said:
Do you need to use DIView to calibrate the pedals?

http://www.h-engineering.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DIView.zip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3Ut4R1O-Sw
Click to expand...
Thanks Cookie,
As always you are very fast to offer help.

In fact I got a clue from a thread about connecting a load cell pedal along with G27 pedals.
https://chippedwood.wordpress.com/2...als-with-load-cell-brake-to-mmos-disco-board/

I had a look in DIView and they were all jumping around wildly.

The answer was that the MMOS software seems to like the polarity? of the pots connections to be the reverse of the standard fanatec.
I know this as I pulled the pedals apart and reversed the outer wires firstly on the brake and....perfect.
Then I did the other two.
All are functioning now, the clutch has a very limited range though.

Now I will use the DIView to calibrate the pedals as you suggest.

Thanks.

A conundrum solved for anyone like me who wants to use a bog standard CSR pedal set with the OSW Wheel and MMOS.
 
Hello!

I just registered here and saved all content :) What an awesome thread congratulations. I have modified a G27 to have 4 motors instead of 2, with cooling components and higher voltage. Made a lot of difference.

What an incredibly cheap and easy DIY servo wheel this is! I am really wondering why would someone pay more than 500 for any other wheel than this. Its too easy. Anyway.

I have a question. I don't want to use the MIGE servo, but an allen-bradley one or other brand, as i hve some spares. It will have different Nm amps etc.

- will any servo connect to the IONI boards?
- will it work for ffb?

What i am asking really is that if i just pass the configuration of the different motor to the ioni config program, do i need to calculate anything else or set up anything on the discovery? Or it will work right away just with different specs of force etc on the game.
 
fuzion said:
Hello!

I just registered here and saved all content :) What an awesome thread congratulations. I have modified a G27 to have 4 motors instead of 2, with cooling components and higher voltage. Made a lot of difference.

What an incredibly cheap and easy DIY servo wheel this is! I am really wondering why would someone pay more than 500 for any other wheel than this. Its too easy. Anyway.

I have a question. I don't want to use the MIGE servo, but an allen-bradley one or other brand, as i hve some spares. It will have different Nm amps etc.

- will any servo connect to the IONI boards?
- will it work for ffb?

What i am asking really is that if i just pass the configuration of the different motor to the ioni config program, do i need to calculate anything else or set up anything on the discovery? Or it will work right away just with different specs of force etc on the game.
Click to expand...

Generally speaking...provided it has a suitable encoder, yes it should work, but, as you imagined, you are alone in the IONI setup process...
Anyway post the spec sheet of the motor, I'll have a look.
 
Hi all , I've just put together a new OSW and after getting up and running have a strange acting servo motor ? When powered it sways side to side ? Phasing ! I original had a few issues with it grabbing hard on the stops and having to EStop to pull it out .. Now it stops at the end of rotation but in iracing once you turn the wheel for more than about 10 degrees it grabs and pulls the wheel down that side . Even in pits with no movement.. I have rewired the encoder 3 times and checked ? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated , dan
 
Hi Dan are you saying the problem is in iRacing and rFactor? if so it's normally a wiring issue if only in rFactor you need to change ffb effects in the controller JSON "Steering effects strength#":" from +10000 to -10000 .
 
Gents,
I am happy to report that my OSW install is complete and fully functional.
There were emotional moments when
-I ripped the solder pads of the Formula Rim when trying to de solder and re solder the connecting pins. (after much study I successfully replaced the 6 tiny little mothers 1mm x 2mm and re wired them to their original traces)
-When I realised that my plain jane CSR pedals are not a USB device and needed to learn to connect them to the STM32 Disco, complete with having to invert the wiring to the pots)

All this came together last night. I soldered the Bodnar PCB in place and re assembled the rim. (not simple when in a permanent fit, I needed 3 hands for a while).

At first it did not work. 90 mimutes of trouble shooting later I accepted that I had to pull it apart and check the solders and maybe find that repairing the damaged Fomula rim was beyond me. BUT it was a broken solder. Re did it and its 100% functionall.
I have been on track today tweaking the FFB settings etc.

Thanks to everyone here for the help and encouragement esp LED566 and Cookie.
I also vouch for Ollies kit.
View attachment 19408
 
I just want to share my excitement of finally sending the funds to Ollie for an OSW (2 or 3 days ago). Hopefully I get a shipping notification soon as I can't wait.

I sold my Fana B M3 GT2 and P 918 RSR rims and am planning to get a Fana Uni Hub + 3 or 4 rims (Fana Flat1 and GT, and 1, maybe 2, larger rims).

If anyone knows of an inexpensive method to be able to change rims while having useable buttons for every rim other than using a Fana Uni Hub, please let me know. Paying $300 - $1,000 per rim (for custom made or modded rims) is not part of my gameplan.
 
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