rFactor Better FFB Tutorial

ZeosPantera

I recently got hold of a friends iRacing account because he insisted I needed to feel this "incredible" "amazing" and "realistic" Force Feedback that he and other iRacing enthusiasts have been touting on-infinitum. I had no doubt that it would be better then rFactor's as rF's age has put it at a disadvantage. I tested with every car in the account on several tracks to get a "feel" for what the iR ffb was actually doing.

I was confident in my ability to duplicate it in rF, I spent the next week searching, tweaking, tweaking and then I did some tweaking to rFactors default Controller.ini, Realfeel and Leo's FFB.

With this concoction of a modified Controller.ini, modified default RealFeel (Thanks goes to this guy's tutorial for the original modification ideas http://www.eoaa.org/phpbbforum/viewtopic.php?t=338) and the painfully difficult editing of Leo's FFB settings. I was finally able to settle and do some testing (and more tweaking).

What this FFB will do is... Well you have to feel it. I think this feels better than iRacing. You will need to adjust every car with realfeel's numpad hotkey's, but with these settings I feel every crevice and bump in the road. I can feel the brakes lock up and the steering goes numb. A locked up tire will pull the steering wheel. I can even feel the slight pressure difference on the steering as the front of the car goes up and over hills and then gently lands again.

===TUTORIAL START================================

For all the Fanatec users, remove the PorscheWheelPlugin.dll from your plugins folder as it interferes with this!


I am using a G27 with a larger wheel than stock and used both 900 and 720 degrees of rotation for testing. Some forces may be set stronger for me than you would like but adjustment is pretty simple.

1} Download this zip.
It contains all the plugins you need with the default settings set already. http://www.mediafire.com/?xrldod5iqbdj5m5 Updated 101612

2} Move the files to their appropriate location Overwrite or remove any previous versions of Leo's or Realfeel!
2011-02-23_031738.png


3} Change the lines in your rFactor\userdata\yourname\Controller.ini There is a copy of them in the zip

4} Go to your Driving wheels control panel and set it up as follows. Even if you aren't using a logitech the spring, damper and strength setting should still be somewhere.
2011-02-23_015932.png


5} Change the "Front Wheel Lock Angle" line
in rFactor\plugins\LeoFFB.ini

The very first line should be changed to your preferred steering lock used in "most" mods. Sometimes this won't be correct if a mod limits the angle but use an average. I use 22° if on 720° of wheel rotation and 28° if running 900° and the mod allows it.
2011-02-23_015858.png


6} Testing Once in-game you will not have to edit anything. Load a car such as HistorX or the Lotus23's or any mod that works with realfeel. I RECOMMEND USING A REAR WHEEL DRIVE CAR FOR A FIRST TEST!! When you go on track you should hear a voice say "realfeel is enabled" This means that realfeel is installed correctly. While sitting still you should find it difficult to turn the wheels and the steering wheel should stay where you turn it. This means that the Leo's is installed correctly.

** If you have severe oscillation when not moving simply lower the "Stiffness of Stationary wheels" value in the LeoFFB.ini

7} Adjusting the FFB
This is the hot key config used by RealFeel. The only things you should be concerning yourself with are the "Reverse FF", "Stronger FF", "Softer FF", "Decrease RFP mix" and "More Smooting" options.
12-Jul-09-rFactorCentral-4808_ReelFeel.jpg


A} Immediately in every new car you use set the RealFeelMix down to 90% (RIGHT CTRL + NUM 1) it will allow the Leo's road bump effects, rumble strips and grass effects to be felt. If you forget to do this the following adjustments will be off.

B} Drive the car at a decent pace turning back and forth. Once rolling ~25 mph you should be able to feel if the FFB is in the correct direction (Pulling to the center) or if the mod has the geometry backward (your steering wheel tries to go all the way left or right.) If it is backward you need to press "RIGHT CTRL + NUM 8". This will reverse the FFB for that particular car and you can continue.

** Note, when rolling forward for the first time around 12 MPH you should feel the Leo's stiffness fade and realfeel will take over. With some mods this transition is transparent in others there is a slight wheel shutter.

C} If the force is too strong you can use either (LEFT CTRL + NUM 9) to lower the FFB strength by 1,000 or (RIGHT CTRL + NUM 9) to lower by 100. Use NUM 7 to make it stronger. Drive for a while at high and low speeds, braking hitting rumble strips etc before finalizing this number.

If you notice your steering wheel vibrates alot when there should be no reason OR if you have to set the strength divider set under 1,000 it is recommended you use a smoothing level of at least 1 (RIGHT CTRL + NUM .)

A SPECIAL NOTE!! The RealFeel plugin's force is most dependent on the suspension CASTER of the car you are using. The higher the caster the stronger the force you will have straitening the wheels out at speed. If you find a car has severely low or high FFB. Instead of putting the Strength below 1000 or raising the divider above 8-9000 and risking over/under modulation try to adjust the Caster in the advanced tab to ~4-8 degrees. An example of Caster being an issue is the V8 Supercars use 15° of caster which is VERY HIGH. I set it to 7° and it was much easier to adjust the FFB correctly.

10} A Note on four wheel drive/ front wheel drive cars. You may find cars like the Historic Rally Cars or the HistorX Mini feel "funny". This is due to the front wheels being powered. What you will feel is, when coasting, it feels perfectly normal but when on the power through a corner the steering force will go light and even pull to one side. This is an effect known as torque steer. It is realistic for cars of this type and I have never felt it with any other FFB setup so that is a bonus.

That should be it. Now for every car you load the calibration procedure will be repeated and the adjustments will be saved automatically to your "rFactor\realfeelplugin.ini". It only takes about 20 seconds once you get the hang of it. I have included as many mods pre-adjusted as possible to help everyone with the transition. The following cars come set up by me.

LIST HAS CHANGED> There are A LOT more now.


Finally, Some mods simply DO NOT WORK with this FFB. I would point out the Saleen S7 Turbo mod as one. I couldn't for the life of me get that or the Mazda MX5's to feel "right". I tested as many mods as I could but if you find one that doesn't work or you are having issues, please post details here and I will take a look. Good luck and Happy Driving.
 
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Thanks very much for this, it looks good and I'll try it.
I will however recommend to change this line:
Steer Ratio Speed="0.00000" to about 20. All it does is increase steering lock below 20 mph. It helps when exiting your garage into a tight pit lane and if you have a low steering lock (and not 900* of rotation)
 
Yes, but for wheels like 900* you want that set to 0, as you don't need any sl boost. Everyone should set it to it's own preference.
 
recommend to change this line:
Steer Ratio Speed="0.00000" to about 20. All it does is increase steering lock below 20 mph. It helps when exiting your garage into a tight pit lane and if you have a low steering lock

As soon as I upgraded from my old black momo to the G27 I ditched the Steering Sensitivity and went 0. If I am able to set my 20+ degrees it is usually not an issue.

I do have video of back in the day my friends removed our Steering Sensitivity with 270 degree wheels. I remember it was very odd. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQm9moPCuFk&feature=related&hd=1
 
Something in the controller.ini update basically killed my FFB, it gave pretty much no FFB, I tried another mod and it was more or less the same. I copied the controller.ini from another install to fix it.

I noticed that a few FFB lines were being set to 0 that used to have a value, I assume that's what did it.
 
It should kill the rFactor default FFB. But the Leo's and RealFeel should take over. Did they install correctly? Say "real feel is enabled" or give resistance when stopped?
 
No, none of that happened. I did set FFBmixer % to 90, then changed it to 100 and got the same result. I then deleted the leoffb.ini and finally realized to rewrite the controller.ini
 
If you didn't hear it tell you Real feel was enabled then how do you know you changed the Mix to 90?.. Firstly, Which mod did you try. Did you try to adjust the realfeel with CTRL + NUM 7 to make it stronger?

Deleting the Leo's ini only would probably do more harm if you left the DLL in the plugins dir.

I'd say remove it all and start over. You may have overwritten one line in the controller.ini you weren't suppose to or left a blank line. It can be very tempermental. I can link my entire Controller.ini and you can replace it all but the you would need to re-bind your keys and controllers. DO NOT USE THE PASTE2.ORG link.. Copying from that leaves the line numbers....

Here is MY actual Controller.ini http://www.mediafire.com/?4ex36359ylwo2fb
 
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ive 6 rF installs and so far put this into 2 of them to try out. I was already happy with just real feel alone but thought id give this a shot. So far I like it very much, thanks for this.
The mods you have set up in the plug.ini are ones I dont have/play atm, but ive set up the ones i have and they work excellent.
 
I'll post a little update. I have tried a few new mods and unfortunately the new Series international Du Mans has severe issues with this FFB. Almost all the cars seem to reverse their FFB about half way through a corner. The porsche is the worst but ironically the Ferrari 430 in that pack does work and is one of the greatest examples of what a car should feel like.

The Szocske mod (spelling may be incorrect) little 4x4 buggies are GREAT with this FFB. They feel better then some of the more well known realfeel mods so I suggest giving them a try. The Lotus23's are still the best Real Feel mod I have ever driven.

Lastly someone messaged me here last night saying that the FFB was great on their new T500 but that everything felt overly sensitive when he used his normal 540 degrees of rotation. I have worked it out that this is a result of the "speed sensitivity" being set to "0" when you update the controller.ini.

It is not recommended that if you use a wheel that you use anything other then 0 as that setting with just (Unrealistically) lower your car's steering lock at speed. Ideal for using a gamepad but not a $600 wheel. I recommend leaving SS at 0 and then just using a higher lock on the steering wheel itself or lowering the car's steering lock to your liking.
 
Thanks very much for this, it looks good and I'll try it.
I will however recommend to change this line:
Steer Ratio Speed="0.00000" to about 20. All it does is increase steering lock below 20 mph. It helps when exiting your garage into a tight pit lane and if you have a low steering lock (and not 900* of rotation)

This parameter uses m/s (metres per second) as its unit. 20 m/s = 72 km/h, or 44.74 mph. I personally wouldn't go above about 10 for this value, to avoid your steering suddenly increasing in very slow corners.

Also (in response to other posts), 'speed sensitivity' (or whatever it's called) is an entirely different setting, has nothing to do with getting out of the pits, and can be set to 0 whether your wheel uses 180 or 900 rotation (but, of course, if you're used to a high setting it'll take a while to adjust, as with any steering lock adjustments)
 
2} Move the files to their appropriate location Overwrite or remove any previous versions of Leo's or Realfeel!

I finally got this working. It turns out my realfeelplugin.dll was 40kb smaller and I had no leoplugin.dll, just the .ini.

Now that's fixed and it feels great, I feel pretty stupid for not following the directions to the punctuation mark the first time.
 
I personally haven't tested with them and my pedals are out of order so I am useless at the moment.
 
I'll post a little update. I have tried a few new mods and unfortunately the new Series international Du Mans has severe issues with this FFB. Almost all the cars seem to reverse their FFB about half way through a corner. The porsche is the worst but ironically the Ferrari 430 in that pack does work and is one of the greatest examples of what a car should feel like.

I know what you mean but I'm afraid this Mod is bad for any FFB set.

By the way, I didn't try your sets so far, but I remember Leo's FFB used to deliver a strange feedback at low speed corners (working without RealFeel, only Leo’s DLL installed)

I expect a heavier wheel when I'm steering at low speeds corners because of the front tires friction. However, I was getting the opposite. The G25 suddenly has turned too weak, actually even pushing towards of corner’s side by itself. It turned the cornering inaccurate.
It seemed ok at high-speed corners. Do these settings correct that? I hope you understood despite my bad English.
 
The combined FFB is certainly better than either Leo's or RealFeel alone. The feeling you described could be mod related. It isn't a hard setup to undo should you not like it. Just remove the 4 files and replace your Controller.ini with the backup you make.

Just be sure there are no leo's or realfeel files present in rfactor before the beginning of this install guide.
 
Thanks for your attention, I'll do all steps and I tell.

BTW, is there some way to stablish a "overall" FFB's setting and bypass any Mod alterations? There's a lot of Mods that ruins the FFB like hell.
 
Currently there is no way to disable one type of FFB over another except to use different installs or to manually remove the plugins. I have tested with many many mods and this does work. The ones that don't work I list here.
 
Indeed, I follow the steps and I got a way better FFB reactions.

The effect that I mentioned has reduced but it's still there, only for 2 ou 3 Mods... I'll dig what propertie causes that loose wheel at low speeds.

Thanks!
 
ZeosPantera, which mod you would propose as the best to show what your settings can provide in terms of feeling? I'm mostly interested in what's happening with front tyres through a corner.

RealFeel is great for feeling what's happening with the car in general but totally sucks about front tyre grip. Standard FF (and modified in many ways of course) can provide some info about that, but overall doesn't feel realistic.
I tried your combination in a mod (won't tell which one, because that doesn't matter at the moment) and I still doesn't get any useful info about front tyre grip.

So, which mod I shoud try with your settings? Thanks.
 
HistorX in general is good with this mod, but individual cars in the pack are better then others. I like the 65 vette and austin mini as stark contrasts. If set up right the vette should feel very loose due to good modelling of tall bias ply tires but with a strong return to center when the caster is raised. The mini should have the odd effect of losing all ffb centering when on the power due to the front wheel drive pulling forward. When you let off the gas for corners the centering returns like a normal car.

Another mod I enjoy testing with is the Lotus23b mod. You can actual feel how light the car is in the FFB. It is the only mod I have driven that you can feel the errors in the road on Coast Track where the curves aren't smoothed and road sections have a ridge separating them.

Bathurst Legends 71' are also very responsive to the point that the FFB mass that usually sits around 2000 in mods with this setup has to be raised to 6000+ to soften the effects.

Best way to test if you are feeling front grip is to lock up your front tires a bit under braking through a turn. The FFB should immediately disappear and return as the tires return to traction.
 
HistorX in general is good with this mod, but individual cars in the pack are better then others. I like the 65 vette and austin mini as stark contrasts. If set up right the vette should feel very loose due to good modelling of tall bias ply tires but with a strong return to center when the caster is raised. The mini should have the odd effect of losing all ffb centering when on the power due to the front wheel drive pulling forward. When you let off the gas for corners the centering returns like a normal car.

Another mod I enjoy testing with is the Lotus23b mod. You can actual feel how light the car is in the FFB. It is the only mod I have driven that you can feel the errors in the road on Coast Track where the curves aren't smoothed and road sections have a ridge separating them.

Bathurst Legends 71' are also very responsive to the point that the FFB mass that usually sits around 2000 in mods with this setup has to be raised to 6000+ to soften the effects.

Best way to test if you are feeling front grip is to lock up your front tires a bit under braking through a turn. The FFB should immediately disappear and return as the tires return to traction.
 
Thanks. Yes, locking the tyres will show if FFB is ok but that's not the problem (I already have that). I'm missing feeling of grip changes when you work your way through a corner and doing corrections with steering wheel. I just don't feel what's happening with front tyres at that moment.
 
Can you tell me which mod your trying with now? The tires loosing grip involves alot of good suspension and tire modeling from the mod maker. Try this mod. It was designed for use with a leo's and realfeel combo from the start. http://www.mediafire.com/?pzbkn2bzokl2q2a

NOTE it comes with settings files for leos and realfeel. Do not over-write my settings just yet. Just try the car first
 
Yeah.. a lot of mods are tweaked to get better results on RFFB. Mostly by changing suspension geometry way off from reality
Question is how to get behaviour of rffb better with suspension geometry taken 1:1 from real world.
 
Question is how to get behavior of rffb better with suspension geometry taken 1:1 from real world.

The Shift2 people claimed 1:1 suspension geometry. Look how that FFB worked out. I don't think rFactor1 contains enough information in the area of physics to reproduce exactly what is felt on a real car. It would require someone as anal as me doing weeks of testing with several cars and dozens of sensors and a fully mechanized steering assembly precisely measuring the force opposing the exact force being placed upon the steering wheel in many many driving scenario's and under different speeds and track conditions. Once all that was known the same scenario's could be played out in-game and the findings could be used used to force a modern wheel to react the same or as close as possible due to hardware limitations on reaction and force.
 
In short, You may never get 100% real force with rF1 and current hardware.
 
I'm not talking about getting 100% real force. I'm talking about getting the best result without need to tweak suspension geometry in unreal way.
In other words, Lesiu's and my question is: how to set up FF for RealFeel to "read" front wheels grip, in case of mod with suspension reproduced as best as possible.
 
Well real-feel reads only suspension forces and leo's only reads tyre forces. That is why they are here together. As far as wanting to model accurately it may just be a case of the ends justify the means. If modeling the suspension correctly means you cannot receive realistic force then there is no point in it.

Most likely you would have to work backward. Model the suspension to best suit the FFB forces you are trying to achieve then tweak the geometry toward realism. It isn't the best system but these are the limitations of rF1.
 
Maybe because car simulation is more important than FF effects
But I'm sure there are a lot of people who doesn't car that what they driving and if car behaves on a road similar to real one or not. So why to use simulations?
 
For all the Fanatec users, remove the PorscheWheelPlugin.dll from your plugins folder as it interferes with this!

Hi ZeosPantera!

Which driver and wheel settings do you propose for Fanatec wheel? There are a few screenshots how to setup Logitech (damper, spring etc).
I tried many different stuff, but no progress. There are quite a few things to be set up on the wheel itself.

Whatever I do, Fanatec feels sluggish and spongy (compared to Logitech).
 
Whatever I do, Fanatec feels sluggish and spongy (compared to Logitech).

Likely due to the belt system the fanatec employs. Had a friend go from a G27 to several fanatecs then back to an arc mod G27. He hates belt drives for the reasons you describe. Best I can advise is play with its settings as much as you can.
 
Thanks. I managed to get to some setting which is acceptable. I forgot to write it down, but I will post it later here if someone wanted to save some time.

I have noticed that wheel becomes softer with speed. Same with Logitech, but not so noticable (probably because of larger diameter of Fanatec).
Which setting should I change? I tried with speed sensitivity in the game, but there was no difference.
 
You want to leave speed sensitivity to 0. That will only make things worse. The issue sounds to be something to do with the mod. How many are you feeling this with and what are they?
 
Clio Cup (FRracers), F1 FSONE2009, HRC

I will test more today afternoon.

BTW, if something changes in controller setting within the game, how does it affect controller.ini changes that you proposed?

Can I use saved configurations (I have both G27 and Fanatec) or is it better to have batch file that would set it before starting the game?
 
you may need to modify each setup separately like you have and then combining it with my adjustments. Not sure what is changed so really cant say.
 
Hm, I was initially changing controller files that rfactor created. When I modified controller.ini directly, it was much better.

I am very pleased with with the outcome.

I have tested FSONE 2009, BRKart, Porsche Enduracers and Clio Cup frracers with both G27 and Fanatec.

Kart and formula were both good. For Clio and Porsche I had to increase toe in to maximum to have some good force on the wheel.

Logitech has a much greater force and rougher feeling than Fanatec. I thought maybe because of wheel diameter, but it's only 1-2 cm difference.

Unfortunately, I can't compare with a real cars. This way Logitech seems more fun.
 
Hi Zeos!
I have read your post and I have found it really interesting. It is the reason why I have joined isiforums. I always have a hard time trying to setup the FFB in my DFP logitech wheel. For me it is very important to have a good feeling to enjoy and to be competitive in Rfactor.

I have tried your settings but I think I need to do some extra adjustments basically because I use a smaller steering angle (about 400º). I am currently playing Game Stock Car mod with the Chevrolet. I would like to ask you some questions to help me understand how to adjust it to my preferences. I would reaaly appreciate your help.

- When adjusting Leo FFB, do I have to use the same steering lock angle that I use in the car setup? If not, how do I configure it?
- What steering lock angle vs steering angle do you recommend?
- In controller.ini there is the parameter Steering Wheel Range. Is it necessary to put the same figure as in Logitech profiler? If different what does it do?
- If I want to increase/decrease intensity should I do it with RFP settings, with Rfactor FFb setting or with Logitec profiler? why?
- Do RFP and Leo effects combine with Rfactor FFB settings or do they override them? I understand they combine (at least partially) since you provide controller.ini file parameters as well. However, this is confusing for me because it means that RFP will be real or unreal depending as well on Rfactor FFB settings. One example is FFB steer force input max. It appears in both Rfactor settings (controller.ini) and in RFP.ini settings. In your files both are set to the same value of 65536. Which one is used or how do they combine? If so I really don't understand what RFP does that cannot be achieved with Rfactor parameters. Furthermore, I would say that in case they combine, RFP should reccomend Rfactor setting values to be a good tool.
- I have read in other posts that FFB effects level should be in low (1) because when in full (4), as in your controller.ini file, the rumble, vibrations and so are artificial. The reason for so is that in rfactor modern tracks, bumbs, rumble and so ever are modelled in the track with real shapes so the FFB is calculated with normal physics.
What is your opinion?
- In your LeoFFb.ini there are 4 settings with 0. Intensity, caster, aligning moment and camber ratio. Why? Can they be changed?
- in controller.ini Gain is set to 1 but FFB steer force output max is set to 0. Why this 0?

I probably could be writing down questions until tomorrow but for sure then you would not reply to my post :)

Thanks a lot in advance
 
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