rFactor Better FFB Tutorial

- When adjusting Leo FFB, do I have to use the same steering lock angle that I use in the car setup? If not, how do I configure it?

The fist line in leo's you can just average the steering lock you use on most cars. I use from 10-24 so I set my first line leo's to 22.

- What steering lock angle vs steering angle do you recommend?

If you have a 900° wheel and you don't use it all your wasting alot of its potential. That said you can usually raise the in-game steering lock higher to compensate and lower it as you feel more comfortable. If you are actually trying to match the real life steering lock of a car then adjust to it but you will need to change it per mod which I find far too annoying to deal with.

- In controller.ini there is the parameter Steering Wheel Range. Is it necessary to put the same figure as in Logitech profiler? If different what does it do?

That is just for the in-game in-cockpit animation so it matches what your wheels steering lock is in replays. It really shouldn't matter and your in-Game steering wheel should be off.

- If I want to increase/decrease intensity should I do it with RFP settings, with Rfactor FFb setting or with Logitec profiler? why?

Logitech profiler should remain at 100%, rFactor should remain at 100%, all the adjustment of force should be through the realfeel hotkeys on the numpad. Why? because..

- Do RFP and Leo effects combine with Rfactor FFB settings or do they override them? I understand they combine (at least partially) since you provide controller.ini file parameters as well. However, this is confusing for me because it means that RFP will be real or unreal depending as well on Rfactor FFB settings. One example is FFB steer force input max. It appears in both Rfactor settings (controller.ini) and in RFP.ini settings. In your files both are set to the same value of 65536. Which one is used or how do they combine? If so I really don't understand what RFP does that cannot be achieved with Rfactor parameters. Furthermore, I would say that in case they combine, RFP should recommend Rfactor setting values to be a good tool.

The edits to the controller.ini essentially disable the rfactor default FFB.. The "FFB steer force output max="0.00000" sees to that. All that remains is the rumble strip effects that play when a track isn't modeled correctly.. Normally with only realfeel installed the MIX options would allow the standard rF-FFB to come through. But since this setup uses Realfeel and leos we don't want any of the standard FFB. Disabling the rF-FFB means the realfeel mix now lets the leo's FFB through. Running 90% realfeel mix usually is enough to get the sensations leo's adds.

- I have read in other posts that FFB effects level should be in low (1) because when in full (4), as in your controller.ini file, the rumble, vibrations and so are artificial. The reason for so is that in rfactor modern tracks, bumbs, rumble and so ever are modelled in the track with real shapes so the FFB is calculated with normal physics.
What is your opinion?


The reason it stays on high is to allow the artificial rumblestip effects to work as all effects are removed on low. It is kept on high and the other effects (throttle, brake) are turned off manually in the file. Most newer tracks do have the rumble-strips modeled but the older ones dont and you can adjust how much of an extra kick the rumble strips have within that file since realfeel can translate very weak strips.

- In your LeoFFb.ini there are 4 settings with 0. Intensity, caster, aligning moment and camber ratio. Why? Can they be changed?

The leo's is suppose to be changed completely out for every single car used. It never adopted the same database format that realfeel has. Leaving the settings at 0 makes it a more universal feel. Also the leo's effects are really what I am getting. Bumps and traction loss.

- in controller.ini Gain is set to 1 but FFB steer force output max is set to 0. Why this 0?

As answered above. The rF-ffb is completely disabled but the gain still effects the other mods use of FFB. Setting the gain to 0 would mean no FFB regardless of the plugin used and their settings.

I should note that since realfeel has been updated recently (sort of) that using the pack at the beginning post is a bit outdated..

Instead try this one. http://www.mediafire.com/?tl56kdbk4yi52q6 (mediafire is a bit broken you may need to wait a bit)

Make sure to remove everything else, both old leo's, both old realfeel ini and dll from both plugins and the rfactor root. The Controller.ini doesn't really change with the updates.
 
I always thought rF didnt' support a 900 degree wheel.

It will support any rotation you give it in any bit-depth. The interior steering wheel animation is defaulted to 270° which just makes it look funny if the wheel is on.
 
It will support any rotation you give it in any bit-depth. The interior steering wheel animation is defaulted to 270° which just makes it look funny if the wheel is on.


Do you have a screenshot of the controller ini file showing where exactly degrees of rotation is?
 
Do you have a screenshot of the controller ini file showing where exactly degrees of rotation is?

Controller.ini line 26. "Steering Wheel Range="880" // Degrees of rotation of in-game steering wheel"

I set my wheel to 880 in the logitech control panel so I match it here. That 10° on each end keeps me from smashing the hard lock points a bit.

KEEP IN MIND.. this has nothing to do with the degrees the game uses. That is determined by the wheel and its external settings. This is a purely visual modification.
 
Controller.ini line 26. "Steering Wheel Range="880" // Degrees of rotation of in-game steering wheel"

I set my wheel to 880 in the logitech control panel so I match it here. That 10° on each end keeps me from smashing the hard lock points a bit.

KEEP IN MIND.. this has nothing to do with the degrees the game uses. That is determined by the wheel and its external settings. This is a purely visual modification.


So yeah it's purely visual. Adding 900 degrees and keeping 900degrees in the profiler will still leave me cranking my wheel to only have it barely move in the game?
 
No, if you match the two settings then the visual representation will match. How much you actually turn the wheels is up to the car's adjustable steering lock.
 
No, if you match the two settings then the visual representation will match. How much you actually turn the wheels is up to the car's adjustable steering lock.


Even if I max it out in game it still doesn't feel right to me. I set my profiler at 356 and that leaves me more adjustability in game.


I'm really hoping that we will be able to set our degrees of rotation in game like netkar and iR with rF2.
 
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Even if I max it out in game it still doesn't feel right to me. I set my profiler at 356 and that leaves me more "play" in game.

Wow.. that is weird. What is your hardware setup? What wheel and what mods.

Here are two examples of real car steering lock.

First a stock Z06 drifting.

He definitely uses the whole steering lock of the wheel and I believe the wheels are 19° if the rFactor mod is to be believed.

Then this is an 80's Touring Master's Holden

He rarely uses more then 360° during normal racing but in an emergency he has at least another lock of turn in each direction. That is what your missing when using such a low lock. Plus when you are driving see if you use the full lock on the tightest turn. If you do then you couldn't possibly correct even the smallest slide.
 
I use V8 factor mostly. In this video is basically how much wheel I like to use.




I used a black momo for a few years and had gotten very used to low degree wheels. I'm still getting used to the 900degree wheel. That's why I love how netkar and iR allows you to enter 900 degrees in game. For me that is the best.
 
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Wheel lock is purely a personal preference thing... and since 90+% of the time in rFactor you're actually racing, not parking in a car park, you rarely need more than 360° total turn when driving. I have my wheel set to 450°, usually with 18° setup lock, and only in slow corners do I get past 90° input, much like most real racing cars you'll see. Any normal street car is the same - the only reason you actually use more lock is that you often take sharper turns than you would on a race track. (of course, I'm referring to normal, 'straight' situations - correcting big slides and similar might need more input)

If I understand you correctly CdnRacer, you're talking about the fact that a lot of mods limit the amount of setup lock you can have - I've seen quite a few mods where the max is 20°, so if you want to actually use the 900°+ of your hardware you end up with hardly any steering going on (despite, obviously, being able to get the on-screen wheel matching your actual wheel). Unfortunately just opening everything up and allowing 45 or 60° setup lock can make things ugly because the suspension does some pretty nasty things if it's not designed to cater for it, and that's probably not entirely inaccurate; I would think a lot of purpose-built race cars wouldn't have the same amount of turn at full-lock as road cars.

I agree with you though, I think the neatest situation would be to just have the wheel on its maximum lock, and be able to define in rFactor, per-car, what the max steering lock for that particular car should be. If you tell it the F1 car you're driving should allow 450° input, and you've set your wheel as 900° in the Settings, then when you get to 50% of lock in either direction it uses the FFB to simulate the boundary there (and doesn't react to any further lock you decide to put on it), in exactly the same way the G25/7 does it when you use less than than the full 900°. That way you can use more lock when it makes sense, without having to go and change any settings outside rF.
 
I agree with you though, I think the neatest situation would be to just have the wheel on its maximum lock, and be able to define in rFactor, per-car, what the max steering lock for that particular car should be. If you tell it the F1 car you're driving should allow 450° input, and you've set your wheel as 900° in the Settings, then when you get to 50% of lock in either direction it uses the FFB to simulate the boundary there (and doesn't react to any further lock you decide to put on it), in exactly the same way the G25/7 does it when you use less than than the full 900°. That way you can use more lock when it makes sense, without having to go and change any settings outside rF.

Exactly!
 
First of all, thanks a lot for everything Zeos.:cool: You have solved my FFB problem and with your answers I now understand much more clearly the philosophy of your setup. The sensations in the wheel were just great. I have had the race tonight and I have enjoyed it a lot. I started training last night after fixing FFB and I have entered the race with only 32 hotlaps.

In the second leg I have passed several people before a fatal accident that ruined my race and that encourages me a lot for next race. I will edit to post the link of the first laps of the second leg to Youtube in case you want to watch:p.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1im51QZ3tw

If you have a 900° wheel and you don't use it all your wasting alot of its potential. That said you can usually raise the in-game steering lock higher to compensate and lower it as you feel more comfortable. If you are actually trying to match the real life steering lock of a car then adjust to it but you will need to change it per mod which I find far too annoying to deal with.

I should note that since realfeel has been updated recently (sort of) that using the pack at the beginning post is a bit outdated..

Instead try this one. http://www.mediafire.com/?tl56kdbk4yi52q6 (mediafire is a bit broken you may need to wait a bit)

Make sure to remove everything else, both old leo's, both old realfeel ini and dll from both plugins and the rfactor root. The Controller.ini doesn't really change with the updates.

I will try using 900º and playing with the lock angle and downloading the new RFP.dll.

I will let you know if I adapt to the change. I guess that doubling the wheel range will require an intensity adjust ment in RFP (I clearly understand how to do it now after yor answer :) )

Greetings
 
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I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to let everyone know that there is an entry in the LeoFFB that needs to be adjusted or you will get FFB that reverses itself halfway through turning the FFB wheel


6.0 Slip angle where aligning moment reverses direction - typically between 8 and 15 degrees

By default, that entry is 6 I believe. try adjusting that entry around and see what a difference it makes. Just FYI

it cured that problem for me, and I even made a thread about it called "LeoFFB weird issue" where I solved the problem and posted my results.

I suspect that this entry will have to be adjusted for each mod.
 
Today, for the very first time, I installed this plugin by following the instructions provided. After that I tried the endurance series mod with realfeel on but I hardly notice any difference at all even when strenghtening and softening FFB levels. What am I actually supposed to "feel"? I have a Logitech Formula Vibration Feedback Wheel. When entering a track it says "realfeel is enabled" so it should be working, right?
 
Today, for the very first time, I installed this plugin by following the instructions provided. After that I tried the endurance series mod with realfeel on but I hardly notice any difference at all even when strenghtening and softening FFB levels. What am I actually supposed to "feel"? I have a Logitech Formula Vibration Feedback Wheel. When entering a track it says "realfeel is enabled" so it should be working, right?

With this? You don't have Force Feedback in that wheel :)

Yeah, find out exactly what wheel you have and post it here. That name indicates you just have vibration motors in there not a FFB setup.
 
Hmm.. that might explain why I didn't notice any difference at all^^

Guess I have to get a new wheel then, any suggestions? Logitech G27 maybe?
 
G27 is the standard go-to FFB wheel and what I used to develop this pack. Fanatec wheels have issues with reliability and the Thrustmaster T500 is a tad expensive.
 
With T500RS there are some issues too. V2 had problems (mine had faulty FFB motor), V3 had problems... V4 still have problems (noisy fan is the most common problem). G27 is more toy-ish compared to T500RS but overall, G27 is probably an all time "best bang for buck" wheel (before, G25 was like that).
 
Hi

Very interesting thread. I love rFactor and hope rF2 will be better.

I just bought the Fanatec GT3 RS and CSP and still trying to figure out how to get some decent ffb out of the wheel. I used the same settings i had for my previous red momo wheel, but feels hopeless, flat and no real feel around corners as i had before. BTW, the fanatec plugin is not installed, but Realfeel and Leo plugins are installed.

Any suggestions or a link where i can find some settings?

Can someone also explain what effect the axis sensitivities inside RF controller have on the gas and brake pedal?

New problem - yesterday the wheel was working fine on rFactor, but when i launched the game today and press race to go on track, the wheel turns all the way left and stays there. Cant straighten it because the FFB is pushing left. Any ideas?

Update - the above problem only happens when leo's dll is installed. Could there be a setting in leo's ini that causes the ffb to push left? Pity I cant use it.

Thanks
 
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Hi

I have one question to first post.
4} Go to your Driving wheels control panel - why the value in checkbox allow game to adjust settings is not set ??
 
Hi

I have one question to first post.
4} Go to your Driving wheels control panel - why the value in checkbox allow game to adjust settings is not set ??

That option as far as I know has no bearing on the wheel(at least my G27) but it is best to lock in the values there and not allow anything to change them.
 
I used the OP a while back and set up my G25 and it was fantastic for something like CART 98, which ive run a lot. I'm running the Enduracers GT2 Porsche and Ferrari a lot now, but this setup is just not working for me. I cannot brake in a reasonable distance without spinning the cars, and forget about applying power until the car is perfectly straight.

Their own website has a setup for the wheel which i changed it to :http://www.enduracers.com/readme/readme/EnduranceSeriesv2/images/settingdriver.png

Without changing anything in rFactor, this Logitech profile made the car much more driveable, but any feel is completely gone, and it feels like im turning a dumptruck. It's fast(er), but terrible to drive

So i suppose the question is, can i get the setup in the OP to work with the Enduracers mod well, or is there simply no mix and match here?
 
can i get the setup in the OP to work with the Enduracers mod well, or is there simply no mix and match here?

Some mods are just not designed for use with real-feel. The geometry of the front isn't modeled correctly for force values to be extracted. All you can do is disable realfeel completely, adjust the mix or really modify the settings until something decent immerses.
 
There is a real-feel upgrade steering option for all the Enduracers cars, but its just not working for me. I end up driving like its a wet track and im on slicks.
 
One of quickest workarounds is to set caster as big as possible.
And as I remember Enduracers mod works good with RFFB. I may be wrong 'cause I use this mod a time ago.
 
Just a quick WARNING.. Anyone here getting the New HISTOR-X 1.9 I advise you to BACKUP your current

RealFeelPlugin.ini

found in the root directory of rFactor. This installer will likely OVERWRITE this file with a new one containing only the historX cars and default RealFeel numbers.

My Suggestion is Backup your old RealFeelPlugin.ini and restore it when the HistorX installer finishes. If you copy the provided HistorX Real Feel data over into your existing and modified ini (The one from this tutorial) all the numbers will be set at stock levels. You are better off just loading each car and tuning it as you would any other mod with this FFB Setup.
 
Well, I tried so hard but after months of testing with rFactor controller.ini, FFB plugins this guide and others, I end up to the conclusion rFactor simply doesn't feel good enough compared to the best GT5 cars.

Don't get me wrong, GT5 has many flaws as a game, but when you are on track hotlapping on a well balanced lotus elise ( all aids off and abs off, adjusting brake bias) it's another world compared to rFactor. In GT5 you have chirurgic ffb, correcting oversteer feels much more natural, and more important, front tyre grip is completely spot on, very progressive and predictable. Basically everything feels "right".

Every pc owner that never tried GT5 think rFactor FFB is light years better than "a console game" but I can't find proofs. And now I'm looking for a FFB similar to GT5 in rFactor.
 
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Well, I tried so hard but after months of testing with rFactor controller.ini, FFB plugins this guide and others, I end up to the conclusion rFactor simply doesn't feel good enough compared to the best GT5 cars.

Don't get me wrong, GT5 has many flaws as a game, but when you are on track hotlapping on a well balanced lotus elise ( all aids off and abs off, adjusting brake bias) it's another world compared to rFactor. In GT5 you have chirurgic ffb, correcting oversteer feels much more natural, and more important, front tyre grip is completely spot on, very progressive and predictable. Basically everything feels "right".

Every pc owner that never tried GT5 think rFactor FFB is light years better than "a console game" but I can't find proofs. And now I'm looking for a FFB similar to GT5 in rFactor.

Real feel + Leo ffb and a good configuration make it marvellous, far beyond gt5 , with the corvette c6r or the 288 gto mod , this is really astonishing ;)
you can feel wich wheel lost it's grip right reat or left rear etc...
 
DFGT wheel,

I had a problem with my account (forgot mail) so I write with this one, thanks for reply guys.

Zeos I tried exactly what you was suggesting, Lotus 23b with Leo , Real feel and your all settings,
the result here is a too spiky FFB, almost no feeling of front grip (no I don't mean front grip loss, I mean front grip), and too many shakes on my wheel. I suspect DFGT is too different compared to a G27 so this guide is not working here.

My wheel on GT5 is awesome, and I want make it work on rFactor as well.
 
Hello everyone,

I'm new here, and to Rfactor... This sim is totally addictive... I bought a wheel and can't play anything else than this :)

Thank you so much for this FFB tutorial. It's just great.

I've got one problem though:

I love the Historic GT mod. BUT... Even though I must admit I have never driven a 1966 911 Porsche, I feel like my steering wheel is just not hard enough to turn... I just don't have any sense of turning my car.

So here is my question: is there a setting somewhere in controller.ini, realfeel.ini, leoffb.ini or any other car specific file, that I could use to just stiffen up my car's direction...?

Thanks for your precious help... !
 
I suspect DFGT is too different compared to a G27 so this guide is not working here.

Spikey is a hard thing to diagnose. You can try to add some smoothing with R-Ctrl and numpad (.) Believe it or not the DFgt is essentially the same pc board but with only one motor not two. So the forces should be similar just weaker/slower. Also make sure everything was set right in the controller.ini and that there are no other plugins messing with it.

is there a setting somewhere in controller.ini, realfeel.ini, leoffb.ini or any other car specific file, that I could use to just stiffen up my car's direction...?

Use the realfeel adjust on the numpad to lower the force divider. (LorR ctrl and numpad 7) The closer to 0 the stiffer the FFB should be. This should also be per-car so loweing it in that porsche should only stiffen that porsche.
 
Well i'm pretty familiar with Realfeel settings via numpad. And my Porsche settings are already set to 0. :/

I'm still able to drive my 911 with a single finger though ^^
 
Well i'm pretty familiar with Realfeel settings via numpad. And my Porsche settings are already set to 0. :/

I'm still able to drive my 911 with a single finger though ^^

Well 0 is off. 1 would be the strongest. Which exact Porsche and are you running the 1.95 HistorX?
 
Well 0 is off. 1 would be the strongest. Which exact Porsche and are you running the 1.95 HistorX?

Thanks... My Porsche drives just fine now... Dunno why I thought 0 was the strongest. Didn't think it would cancel the effect ^^
 
Thanks... My Porsche drives just fine now... Dunno why I thought 0 was the strongest. Didn't think it would cancel the effect ^^

It is a power divider. 100 divided by 100 is 1, 100 divided by 50 is 2, 100 divided by 5 is 20, but 100 divided by 0 is zero and therefore no ffb.
 
Spikey is a hard thing to diagnose. You can try to add some smoothing with R-Ctrl and numpad (.) Believe it or not the DFgt is essentially the same pc board but with only one motor not two. So the forces should be similar just weaker/slower. Also make sure everything was set right in the controller.ini and that there are no other plugins messing with it.
I tested all the smoothing things on numpad, the result is a decent FFB, but not "great".
Main problem is a part spikey, the general lack of grip and little connection to the road, I can't feel what the car is doing like in GT5. I'll try reinstalling Logitech Drivers, reinstall rFactor and let's see what happen.
 

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